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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.